All at sea

OK, it was a tad extravagant but we told ourselves that we are unlikely to come this way again and what’s more, David Attenborough had said that it was “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world” so we decided to find out for ourselves.  What?  Oh yes, I’ve not yet said what it is.  You’ll just have to read on J

It seems odd taking off in a light airplane equipped with floats from the regular runway at Derby Airport, but that’s what we did.  Just us and eight others for the 45 minute flight over a coast line of truly amazing, rivers, coastal inlets, mangroves and sand banks passed by so quickly that it was difficult to take it all in.  We landed on the calm tranquil waters of Talbot Bay motoring up to the floating hotel where we would stay overnight.  . 

Within minutes we were aboard the fast boat, and fast it was.  Three 300 horse power motors propelled us through the water at breakneck speed to see what is known as the Horizontal Falls.  As it was near to the last of the tide, frankly the falls were not too impressive but the boat ride was a thrill.  Back on the hotel it shark feeding time when eight nurse sharks, a tiger shark and a bull shark came close for what was obviously a regular event for them.

After all this activity it was time to watch the sun go down over the hills over the top of a glass of wine before dinner was served, wild caught barramundi and salads, food in abundance with congenial company.  No-one stayed up very late.  The sea air and excitement of the day caught up as the gently rocking sent everyone into slumber land.

Next morning, most of us were awake to watch the sun rise, colouring the hillsides with a golden glow.  This was the view from our cabin window.

The fast boat was once again pressed into service and this time the Horizontal Falls was flowing strongly.  I should perhaps explain that the Horizontal Falls are a fast-moving tidal flow through two narrow, closely aligned gorges. The direction of the flow reverses with each change of tide.  As tides in the Kimberley can reach 10 m (33 ft), a peak tide gives rise to a significant difference in the sea level on either side of each gorge.  When we went through, the difference in height was about one and a half metres.  That 900 horsepower really came into play holding the boat stationary, we were moving at 15 knots against the flow.

Then sadly it was over.  The seaplane took us back to Derby passing over some of the thousands of islands (Buccaneer Archipelago) that litter the coastline and contribute to some of the most dangerous sailing waters anywhere. 

As an adventure it was hard to beat, and the experience will last for a very long time in our memories.  But it was time to move on and, oh joy, a tarmac road all the way from Derby to Broome, the home of South Sea Pearls.  Not that we took in pearls straight away.  We went to the world’s oldest picture gardens, the Sun, opened in 1916 and still going.  The Australian film ‘Last Cab to Darwin’ was good, made more interesting because we have been to most of the locations where the film was shot. 

Kim decided that on the basis of recommendations from other travellers, we should go to Cape Leveque, a couple of hundred kilometres north west of Broome.  We knew the road was unsealed but it must rank as one of the weirdest roads we’ve ever driven.  Mostly sand, some hard and some very soft, the track was in many places as half-tunnel.  Driving was hard.  The wheels on one side would run easily on a hard surface whilst the wheels on the other side bogged in the soft stuff.  Add to that the concave shape with the vehicle tipped sideways and it was not a comfortable drive.  The 85 kilometres of track took us nearly two hours.

We were disappointed with the rather surly staff at the Kooljaman Resort but views over the Indian Ocean were spectacular (I’m beginning to run out of superlatives!!) especially at sunset.  No I’m not putting up another sunset photo.  

Next morning we visited the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm and what a contrast.  Welcomed as soon as we arrived, and great coffee before we took a tour around the land based part of the operation.  We saw how oysters were ‘seeded’ to encourage the growing of a pearl before placement in the nutrient-rich waters off shore.  Ben, our guide demonstrated how a pearl was recovered but unfortunately, ‘our pearl’ was black and dull, and of no quality whatsoever.  The tour ended with us looking at different colours and lustres of pearls which was a fascinating end to a really interesting and informative tour.

Back down the track to Broome and we decided a couple of days R&R were in order.  Mike’s back has been giving him some problems, exacerbated by the off road conditions and so we’ve checked into an hotel next to the world famous Cable Beach.  Which is where we’ll leave you as we’re off for a civilised breakfast.