Over the border

The early morning chill woke us before it was properly light.  Snuggling under the duvet offered temporary respite but soon the demands for a cup of tea forced Mike to brave the outside.  Goodness was there a morning dew!  Much more and it’d be possible to sail over it.  Everywhere was dripping and the outside of the tent was saturated yet again.

Kettle boiling and two dozen lads from a school in Canberra, who had been camping nearby, trudged past, setting out for their day on the mountain.  None of them looked very enthusiastic.  Then two other lads who were camping for the first time got into their car and drove off.  Their camping gas stove had exploded with spectacular effect the previous evening and despite the offer to use our stove, had chosen to return to the comfort of a hot meal at home.

The sun eventually peeked over the mountain but it was a watery affair with little warmth, so once again we packed up a wet tent.  Not only that, but the damp had penetrated our storage boxes, condensing on every surface that had any residual warmth.  After a couple of “oh dash bothers” and the use of the ‘facilities’ we were packed ready to go.

Heading out past the small town of Thredbo on the Alpine Way, we were immediately in the mountains again.

Our first stop was at the Murray 1 hydro electric power station, part of the Snowy Mountains Scheme.  Construction of the Scheme began in 1949 and was completed in 1974.  Seven power stations, 16 dams, 80 kilometres of aqueducts, 145 kilometres of tunnels and a large pumping station comprise the Scheme.  The Murray 1 boasts ten turbine driven generators creating enough power to supply almost a million homes.  We thought the whole thing very impressive and can report that half a dozen spinning generators make a lot of noise, as well as a lot of electricity.

We drove the length of the Alpine Way.  At 65 kilometres in length it’s possible that as much as 400 or so metres do not have some form of bend.  The road hugs the mountainside, first climbing a valley side, then through a mountain pass, descending into the next valley, then climbing again for a repeat performance.  The views were spectacular, glimpsed only when there was time to take your eyes off the road for a second or so.  Even with a low gear engaged we eventually had to stop to let the brakes cool and the smell of burning to disburse.  Vin Rouge is heavily loaded and for the first time uttered a few complaints about it.  But after a short rest we continued.

As we climbed higher into the Alpine National Park and crossed the border into the State of Victoria, the clouds thickened and darkened.  

Soon there was lightning, then came the rain.  Now we’re used to tropical rain in Queensland but this was on an entirely different scale.  It fairly blasted down, turning the roads into rivers and washing mud, rocks and bits of tree down from the mountain sides.  Visibility dropped alarmingly and at times speed was reduced to a crawl. The splendid scenery just wasn’t to be seen.

 Eventually we came through the storm and arrived at the small town of Tallangatta in the Murray Valley.  The rain subsided and finally stopped as we set up camp at the side of Lake Hume.  The lack of recent rain was evident as the level of the lake was at least 20 feet lower than it should be – and Lake Hume is a very large lake.

Him Upstairs put on a magnificent sunset, presumably by way of atonement for what we had endured during the day.  According to the locals, the rain was the first for nearly three months and they are very glad of it.

Next morning was mild and dry, although high clouds were building over the mountains.  We lost no time in packing up camp and just as we’d finished the heavens opened.  The whole day was spent in rain, sometimes light showers, sometimes heavy downpours.  Will it never stop?

The drive was ‘challenging’.  Twisting, wet, greasy roads littered with debris and visibility often down to 30 metres.  It seemed to go on for hours.  Finally, after looking for somewhere to stay and getting nowhere, we stopped at the next pub, the Bruthren Inn where we checked in, had a meal and a few beers with the locals.  Four star is was not, especially as the place had built in water features coming through the roof.  However, the room was dry and we crashed out.

The forecast is for more rain tomorrow and better weather after that as we leave soggy February and go into what we hope will be sunny March.  We can’t wait.